Flagstaff, Arizona - Sunset Crater National Monument - Arizona Snowbowl, Wupatki NM and Cottonwood, AZ

October 4 - 8, 2014:  Tucson - Flagstaff, Arizona

The Odyssey is finally leaving the driveway where it has been sweltering in the brutal Arizona summer heat for the past two months.  We are going to Flagstaff for 4-5 days where it is about 15-20 degrees cooler (I hope) which should be a nice relief. We leave on Friday October 4th heading towards Phoenix but taking the 202 and the 101 loops to avoid traffic.  Everyone hates the drive through Phoenix but it’s really no worse that most other major cities.  I must say that I'm actually quite impressed with the highway planning in Phoenix, they have expanded travel lanes, added new loops and overpasses with very artistic sound barriers, good road signs and are keeping pace with the ever increasing population.  Tucson on the other hand is way behind, but in some ways I’m OK with that, I really don’t want it to become another Phoenix,  Unfortunately, it is already happening, the city planners can’t seem to say no to the developers and the city limits are rapidly expanding and the road are not.

 Eventually, we get off the Phoenix speedway and onto route 17 north and it’s a relief to see open country and Saguaro Cactus again however the road is a handful in places, steep uphills with high speed curves.  There is a major road construction project in progress however which is badly needed, but was causing a long traffic jam for many miles this day for no apparent reason.  We eventually got through it to Flagstaff where we took routes 40 to 89 to the Bonito Campground where hoped to get a campsite, but unfortunately none were available.  The camp host was very helpful and directed us to a nearby dispersed camping area, she also recommended that we check back on the next morning as likely there would be openings.

The dispersed camping area is in the Coconino National Forest and we had no trouble finding a spot along the dirt road road.  Shortly after arriving however, the traffic along this dirt road picked up dramatically with every vehicle creating clouds of dust.  We started to wonder, why so much traffic, where is everyone going?  

In the morning we found the answer when we walked about a half a mile down the road to see many other off road campsites and a large parking area filled with cars for a hiking trailhead.  We then returned to the Bonito Campground where we were able to get a campsite at half price with our senior America card, what a deal.  We then drove to the nearby Sunset Crater National Monument visitors center, checked out the exhibits and then took a short trail into the Bonito Lava Flow.  

The Sunset Crater volcanic eruption is amazing, it erupted between 1040 and 1100.  The Cone is 1,000 feet high and one mile in diameter and its ash fall extends for approximately 800 square miles.  The Bonito lava flow was about 100 feet thick and flowed for more that 6 miles. This area has had much volcanic activity and it is now believed that this is due to the area being at the boundary of the Colorado plateau where the Earth’s crust is very thick and the Basin and Range region where the crust is very thin.  At this transition, faults develop which serve as pathways for lava to move to the surface.  The nearby San Francisco Peaks are believed to have once been a massive single peak reaching 16,000 foot in elevation.  It is believed that a massive explosion took place, similar to Mt. Saint Helens, resulting in several smaller peaks from the original Volcano.  Humphreys Peak at 12,633, remains as the tallest Mountain in Arizona. 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunset_Crater

Beautiful views near campground  

The Bonito lava flow is an amazing sight

It's a crazy beautiful landscape

We then drive approximately 13 miles further on the road through the National Monument to the Wupatki National Monument.  The center piece is the Wupatki Pueblo which is a most impressive multi storied complex which archeologists believe, based on artifacts found, to have been inhabited by a well organized community involved in a lively trade network and elaborate ceremonies.  The current Hopi people regard those who lived here to be their ancestors. However archeologist believe based on pottery found,  that the Kayenta people occupied about half of the known area dwellings.  It is also believed that between 1130 and 1160 as many as 3,000 people lived in this area. They were good farmers however tree ring dating shows that in the late 1100’s the climate entered a warmer, drier phase making life difficult and the last roof beam date was found to be 1225 which is considered to be the last occupation date.  Unfortunately, much of the of the Pueblo area was closed for maintenance and we couldn’t see it up close.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wupatki_National_Monument

It's a massive compound

An artists rendering of what it would have looked like

A beautiful scenic location 

The stone work is pretty amazing

The visitors center had excellent exhibits and a very sad history of the Navajo peoples struggles to live on their home lands.  The uplifting part of this history is the work of the Museum of Northern Arizona to save the Pueblo from destruction by the creation of a National Monument although that resulted in the (dark side) removal of the Navajo people from the park land. 

We then drove a few miles away to the Wukoki Pueblo with its elevated, solid rock foundation overlooking a wide flat area.

https://www.nps.gov/thingstodo/visit-wukoki-pueblo.htm

Back at the Bonito Campground, we find this to be one of the quietest campgrounds ever, (almost unreal) no children, adults or dogs making noise.  There are no hookups here, but we have good sun for charging, ample propane and water in our tanks, all is good.

On Sunday morning, we drive through Flagstaff and then uphill for about 25 miles on a curvy mountain road to the Arizona Snowbowl.  We are going to take the gondola ride to the top of the ski mountain and it appears that everyone else has the same idea, it was quite crowded.  The road has a limit of 30 foot length for RV’s and trucks, so we are OK, but we didn’t see any RV’s on the road, very unusual ?  I was a little disappointed by the ski area lodge, its actually kind of small, dingy and backwards.  I expected more from a ski area that is reported to be the most expensive in the US.  The Gondola appears to be brand new and the view from the top was great but only one short trail was open and no amenities at all.  Back down at the base, we wanted to spend our $20 credit towards food for taking the $100 Gondola ride.  We found no real food concession inside, but eventually found out how it works, you take a table outside and wait for a server to come round and take your order.  It was very slow, we had to chase after a server to place an order, but after about 45 minutes or so we did get our order and it actually was very good.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arizona_Snowbowl

The gondola appears to be very new

It's straight to the top

An impressive looking ski map

The map shows the extensive number of area dormant volcanoes

Back at the campground, we take a trail which runs through a forested area along the Bonito Lava Flow with great views, interesting plants and geology.

The Ponderosa Pines are beautiful

This lave flow occurred about 1,000 years ago, but still looks fresh ? 

This cactus seemed a bit misplaced here

Love the contrast between the lava, the green plants
and the burnt tree

On Monday, our last day we leave the campground and head south on route 89 to 17 and then 89A to Sedona, AZ.  Route 89A is actually not recommended for RV's, it’s very narrow with many hairpin turns, but the views and scenery are amazing.  The problem however is that it’s extremely hard to find a place where you can pull over and park.  As the fall foliage season is happening, the parking areas and trails are currently filled.  It’s actually kind of frustrating, seeing bits and pieces of the colorful rock formations through the trees, but being unable to stop and explore.  After going through downtown Sedona and what seemed like endless roundabouts we get back on route 17 south to the exit for Cottonwood, AZ.  We go directly to the Dead Horse Ranch State Park Campground where we get a campsite.  

We then drive to old downtown Cottonwood, park and explore the Main Street area which has a good mix of restaurants and shopping.  We have a great lunch at the Old Town Cafe and then return the campground.  It seems that the wine growing industry has become very popular in this area much to my surprise, I wouldn't think the climate would be right ?  

It’s a hot day, about 100 degrees as we put out the awning for the first time and run the air conditioning.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cottonwood,_Arizona

Beautiful ceiling inside the Old Town Cafe

Liked the "no attitudes" sign

Interesting mural on the side of the Red Rooster Cafe

Another artistic one

Tuesday morning, it’s time to head back to Tucson, route 17 south with no traffic delays this time, taking the 101 - 202 loops and route 10 without incident and arriving back in Tucson in mid afternoon.  

That all for now, we need to get this machine out again in a month or so for a longer trip.

Tucson, AZ to Corning, NY by air; return by road to Tucson

August 23 - September 5, 2024:

This is an unusual fly / drive road trip to meet up with my wife Sue, aka Twinkles, who has been visiting family in Elmira, New York since early July.  I fly from Tucson, AZ to Syracuse, NY on August 23rd where she picks me up at the airport at night.  The flight was delayed several hours at Chicago due to an aircraft problem requiring a plane change, as a result I arrived at Syracuse about midnight. 

A big crowd waiting at the gate for flight to board

Sue was there many hours ahead of time waiting, but it could have been worse, like the next day.  The drive from Syracuse to Corning, NY was about an hour and a half over twisty, very dark, hilly roads which was fairly miserable, however Sue kept telling me how beautiful it is in the day time, it didn’t help.  

Our destination is the beautiful town of Corning, NY where Sue is staying at a Air BnB in an old residential area of town.  It’s a pretty rough BnB, appears to be a low budget do it yourself project, but the charm is that it’s within walking distance of the downtown.  

In the morning, Sue takes me on a walking tour of the downtown Market Street area.  It is a really beautiful town, full of beautiful late 1800’s buildings, tree lined streets, with many interesting stores, restaurants and pubs.  The main tourist draw in town however is the Corning Museum of Glass which we visit on the following day.  

Corning glass is also the major employer here as a producer of many glass products used in various industries.  Corning is also in close proximity to the Finger Lakes attractions.  

Sue also makes sure to take me to her favorite super market, Wegmans, which I’ve been to before, many years ago and it’s as good as I remember. Actually, I’ve been to Corning a few decades ago when I worked in nearby Elmira, NY on a railcar overhaul project for NJ Transit.  It was during that time period that I first met Sue. 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corning,_New_York

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corning_Inc.

The Finger Lakes has many attractions

Market Street Corning view

Palace Theater

Shady tree lined streets

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Brick buildings with beautiful ornamental window and door embellishment   

The Corning Museum of Glass has amazing exhibits as expected with a special traveling exhibition called the Collidoscope: de la Torre Brothers Retro-Perspective. Collidoscope is a playful remix of the words collision and kaleidoscope.  They are all done with glass and in many of them the objects change or move when you look at them from different angles.  It's all pretty strange !

More to my liking were the historic glass exhibits from around the world going back to ancient times.

It's based on an Aztec Calendar offering a spin of time and consumption in the modern era 

This one drastically changes as you view it from other angles

They are all amazing, very creative, but not for everyone

A beautiful Tiffany stained glass window removed from a prominent NY home  

Amazing glass tray

Attractive plate manufactured in England in 1892

We also went back to Elmira where I now have a difficulty finding my way around, but the old Holiday Inn where I stayed (for years) still remains although it has been taken over by another hotel chain.  We went to one of the notable (almost famous) small bar / restaurants known as the Elbow Room for lunch.  We didn’t have the spicy chicken wings that they are famous for, (I never cared really for them) but the Philly cheese steak was great.

On another day we drove to Seneca Lake where we walked the Gorge Trail at Watkins Glen State Park.  It was very crowded with tourists as it was a Sunday and there was a historic antique car race taking place at the famous Watkins Glen Race Track.  Watkins Glen State Park is a must do thing in Watkins Glen, it’s fantastic !  Afterwards we walked around the quaint Watkins Glen downtown area on the southern shore of Seneca Lake.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watkins_Glen,_New_York

Looking down on the crowd from above

Several beautiful waterfalls in this gorge

The rock layers are also beautiful

Nice viewing spot

Great waterfall

Ben and Jerry's ice cream shop delivery wagon ?

Race car mural on street corner

On another day we drive to Keuka Lake where we took a walk in the quaint downtown area of Hammondsport, NY.  All of these lake side towns are beautiful !  We then visited  the Bully Hill Winery overlooking the lake where we tasted a few wines, but left with just one lonely bottle.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hammondsport,_New_York

It's a good life on Keuka Lake

He was an amazing man

Beautiful church in Hammondsport

A notable house in town

Looking out onto Keuka Lake

The old train station

Cloudy view from the Bully Hill Winery parking lot

Apple Tree at the Winery

We enjoyed several meals in downtown Corning over the week, but the most impressive was a great lunch at the Old World Cafe and then the adjacent farmers market, especially the Amish donut vendor that makes them fresh on the spot.  Everyone loves these donuts, a perfect food and there is a constant line to buy them and they were truly great !

Beautiful park like setting at the market

Loved the name, Muddy Fingers Farm

Sue in line for a couple of donuts

The Chemung River and bridge

Nice downtown view

Glassmaking mural on building

Beautiful floral mural

Another architectural gem

And another

And another

On our final day in the area, we drive to the town of Lansing, NY slightly north of Ithaca, NY to meet Tucson friends, Paul and Sarah.  Sarah owns a beautiful house there where they spend several months during the summer.  They took us to a nearby nature reserve park on Lake Cayuga where Sarah swims daily and to a beautiful waterfall overlook area a few miles away.  This area is so lush with vegetation and trees, quite a contrast to Tucson, AZ.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cayuga_Lake

We stoped at the Newfield covered bridge on the way

Oldest bridge in daily use in NY state

 

Waterfall View

Group shot of Sarah and Sue with Paul bookends

Sue is now longing to get home, as we leave Corning on Saturday, August 31st.  We travel on Rt 99 south into Pennsylvania traveling through Williamsport and Lockhaven, then make a stop in Altoona, PA where we visit the Railroaders Memorial Museum.  It’s a great museum about the largest railroad shop in the country, or the world, in its heyday.  We then continue on route 70 bypassing Pittsburgh, PA and stop at Tridelphia, PA where we spend the night.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Altoona,_Pennsylvania

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Altoona_Works

The massive route map of the Pennsylvania Railroad

At NJ Transit I attended a conference call at 6:45 AM each day to review train delays from the previous day to determine the cause, not much fun !

The GG1 Locomotives were fantastic

The Railroad was a very dangerous occupation

This testing also seems pretty dangerous to me

A photo of the test bed described above

An old coach inside the Roundhouse 

The Horseshoe Curve outside of outside of Altoona, PA is another tourist attraction and engineering marvel 

The entrance to the museum

Near the Railroad museum was this historic Boyer Candy factory building

We are now focused on getting home by Thursday night.  In order to accomplish this we must stay on the interstate highways, with virtually no stops to see anything along the way which is totally foreign to my method of traveling !  There are times however when it is necessary for domestic tranquility ?  The route we are taking however is going through many cities and towns that I have seen previously, as a result I not feeling that I’m missing a lot.  

On day 2 we head out in dense fog and rain on Rt 70 through Wheeling, WV over an impressive bridge over the Ohio River, (make a note to come back here some day),  eventually to my relief, the fog and rain subside.  

We then continue on Rt 70 around Columbus, Ohio, then take route 71 through Cincinnati, OH and then thorough Louisville, OH.  It killed me to ride past the Ohio riverside with the old Riverboat loaded with people getting ready for a river ride. (Add this to make must do list) It was then onto Rt 64 to Rt 69 to Evansville, Indiana for the night.

On day 3 we continue on Rt 69 to Rt 64 around St Louis to Rt 44.  We then take Rt 44 to Carthage, MO for the night.  We do have some spare time after checking into our motel to drive into the downtown area.  Note: We could be driving more miles per day, but aren’t that desperate to get home. We drive to the town square area and view the incredible Carthage Courthouse and several other old buildings.  Route 66 passes through Carthage about a block away and we manage to find a great old diner there called Iggy’s Diner where we have dinner in a “real” classic diner, it was great!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carthage,_Missouri

The Jasper County Courthouse was rebuilt in 1894-95 after being burnt down during the Civil War in 1863.

Old building in need of saving on the outskirts of the Carthage Square

Carthage had a major civil war battle which they won and they reenact it every year !

Lots of ornamental storefront tin here

Iggy's Diner on Route 66 was built in the late 1990's but has a much older vibe

Looks more like the 1930's

Lots of Elvis on display here

On day 4 we continue on Rt 44 around Tulsa, OK stopping in Bristol, OK to look around.  I’ve spent some time in both St Louis and Tulsa in the last couple of years so it doesn’t bother me to bypass them. In Bristol we happen upon the old Railroad Station, which I then remember from a previous trip.  It is closed today, but a friendly woman inside comes out, she had seen us looking in the window.  She then gave us a special card and peanut keepsake that they hand out to visitors, it might be the highlight of our day !  

Boom-A-Rang Diners started 25 years ago in Muskogee, Oklahoma and now have 53 locations in Oklahoma

Crazy mural in Bristol, Oklahoma that I've seen before

Old Frisco Caboose at the train station

Route 66 Mural in wall near train Station

Bristol downtown view, old route 66

We then continue around Oklahoma City, OK (easy to negotiate through, basically straight on route 44).  We then merge onto route 40 and traveled across Oklahoma into Texas, stopping for the night in Shamrock, Texas.  I’ve also been here recently, not much new for me to see, but Sue hasn’t been here, so I play tour guide.  Sue is not impressed by the route 66 nostalgia stuff, it’s more of a man thing.  We visit the historic, restored much photographed Conoco Gas Station and the impressively large Shamrock Water Tower.  There is also another beautifully restored Magnolia gas station a couple of blocks away  The original route 66 passes through town with many nostalgic signs and murals, (possibly a little excessive) and a great car salvage yard with many classic 1930’s-1950’s cars which I missed on my previous visit. The original main street of Shamrock however is very depressing, mostly vacant buildings or depressed looking stores.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shamrock,_Texas

The Tower building is an art deco combination gas station and diner

There is a very folksy visitors center & gift shop inside

It is illuminated beautifully at night

The Shamrock welcome mural next to the massive Water Tower

The story of the Water Tower

The Magnolia Station is beautiful

Lots of route 66 vibe here

I loved this sign 

Lots of rusty 40's - 60's cars

Many are pretty far gone for restoration but useful for parts

It's a good collection

On day 5 we take Rt 40 through Amarillo, TX to Tucumcari, NM where we exit the highway and do a quick tour of the old downtown area.  It’s practically a ghost town, but it was obviously a vibrant town in its hey day.  There is a large impressive old train station that has been saved and is now a museum.  

We then continued on Rt 40 to Santa Rosa, NM where we stop for lunch at the Comet II Restaurant.  I always wanted to check this place out and wondered about the name as in New Jersey we had a fleet of rail cars that were called Comet II’s and I was involved for several years in the manufacture of these cars and in latter years their mid life overhaul. 

Interesting building in parking lot

 We then took Rt 54/60 which is a very rural country road that takes you through the interesting town of Mountainair, NM following a very busy BNSF railroad line to Rt 25.  This route is a short cut that bypasses Albuquerque, NM and is a much less stressful ride.  

At Route 25 we head south to Socorro, NM where we explore the downtown area a while, checking the historical signs in the town square area.  Socorro is an old Spanish town with much history and a beautiful church, San Miguel Mission Church.  Another town I’ve visited several times !

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Socorro,_New_Mexico

It's the very muddy Rio Grande River

Lots of animal tracks

Lined with massive Cottonwood trees

On our final day 6, we take Rt 25 south to Truth or Consequences where we stop for coffee at the popular Passion Pie Cafe in town. 

These interesting signs were on light posts

This mural just sucks you right in ?

It's Kamala flexing her muscle

The Passion Pie Cafe was very good, but a bit over the top ? 

We then continue on Rt 25 to Hatch, NM famous for its chili peppers and then take Rt 26 to Deming, NM where we get on Rt 10 to Lordsburg, NM where we stop for a lunch break and fuel.  It’s then Route 10 into AZ all the way to Tucson and home.  All towns and areas we have seen many times.    

We have traveled 2,438 miles with no issues and on our return home the house looks OK, the cat is alive, all is well.