Travels with Twinkles

June 3 - 10, 2020:

Here I go again and for some reason I’m nervous about it this year, I’m feeling more vulnerable, older and slower. I always wished I had that reckless, devil may care gene, but it just isn’t there. It’s June 3rd and after checking and rechecking all my trip checklists finally I’m off. The first days target is a BLM dispearsed campsite near Sedona which I thought would be easy as I had been there a few years ago and liked it Guess what, I rode around for an hour looking for it, couldn’t find it and settled for another good spot which I later found to be within 1/4 mile of the desired location. I think that black man at the Walmart where I had stopped for a few food items near Phoenix, wandering down aisles saying “I can’t breathe” over and over messed with my brain.

Rest stop north of Phoenix

It was really hot 100 +, that also helped, and my spirits soared when I plugged in my new 12V fan and it worked beautifully. The Refrigerator was really put to the test and was struggling, but it kept going, although it worries me.

Day 2 was an intended hike on the nearby Bell Trail, but unknowingly I started from the overflow parking lot which meant a extra 1 1/2 mile walk to just get to the Bell Trail. It was extremely hot and I was wondering why people on the trail were dressed more for the beach trip than for a hike. It turns out, the Bruce Drockett Trail, leading to the Bell Trail is mostly downhill to a flowing river oasis with several water ponds which everyone but me knew about. As it already about 100 degrees and I would have to walk uphill to the parking lot, that was enough of a hike for me. Sedona itself leaves me cold, such a beautiful spot that has been filled with excessive and often gaudy development, I’ll just leave it at that. I departed Sedona on scenic route 89A heading towards Flagstaff. Many people were stopping along the river to wade and cool off, but parking spots were limited. I had researched a couple of dispersed BLM and Forest Service camping area off route 89A and ended in one for the night.

Warning sign at trailhead didn't put me at ease

Bell Mountain view

Lots of room and real trees

Day 3 took me into Flagstaff for more shopping and to check my tire pressures as I was now getting a low pressure indication on the dashboard for the rear tires. I found nothing wrong with the tire pressures except that the factory monitoring system on the van is showing the lower front tire pressures for the rear tires. In order to get rid of the warning indication you have to over inflate the front tires. This needs more investigation. I then did some exploring looking for potential dispersed campsites around Flagstaff, it’s pretty easy north of Flagstaff as National Forests abound there, but the roads are rough, dusty and treacherous in places. These forest service roads go for miles and miles, you can easily get really lost if you aren’t careful. Many of these roads also require high ground clearance and sometimes even 4X4, you always need to proceed with caution. I ended up about 1 1/2 miles off route 180 on FS-245 . The higher elevation north of Flagstaff resulted in cooling temperatures which were most welcome, I didn’t need to use the fan and had to add a blanket on at night !

Day 4 I headed north on Rt 180 with a planned stop at “Red Mountain” which exceeded all expectations. It was written up in Arizona Highways otherwise I would have driven past as most travelers heading to the Grand Canyon do. I then continued on to the Grand Canyon south rim which has just reopened, partially, so it’s not as jammed packed as it normally would be. I saw little social distancing or mask wearing among the tourists, which ,makes me wear my mask even more. It was very windy with lots of dust blowing so the mask was giving me some extra protection. I wandered around the “Mather Point” rim area which I had missed on our previous limited trip two years ago. I did more research and found that there are several National Forest road areas open for dispersed camping just south of the National Park. It was even cooler here at night, had to get into my sleeping bag in the early morning hours.

Red Mountain was definitely worthwhile

Another view

Day 5 was back to the Grand Canyon taking the mile long Geology walking rim walk which is very well done with rock samples of the various rock strata composing the Grand Canyon with interpretive signs. I then did a short hike down the Bright Angel Trail into the Canyon. This is the trail you take for the mule rides. I had hoped to take a shuttle to the Hermits Rest but the shuttle is not yet operating. I then headed east on Route 64 stopping several roadside canyon view points. The plan was to continue on route 64 to Cameron, AZ and then take route 89 north through Navajo country to Page, Arizona.

Unbeknownst to me, (there were no earlier road signs) the road is closed at Lipan Point and no traffic is permitted into the Indian country due to the very serious covid-19 virus issues on the Indian reservation. As a result, I had to turn around and backtrack back to Flagstaff, there is no alternate way. At Flagstaff, I decided to go to the Cinder Hills OHV Area adjacent to the Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument for the night.

The warning sign on the bright Angel Trail

View from the trail into the canyon

Lipan Point overlook view with the Colorado River far below

Another view into the canyon

Day 6 started with a ride through the OHV area which is beautiful territory covered with pea sized volcanic rocks. Beautiful Ponderosa pIne trees were in abundance and the road borders the Sunset Crater National Monument, very scenic. I’m not a fan of the OHV crowd, but the place is well suited for it, it’s not that destructive here and it seems to be we’ll monitored by the OHV group and the BLM. The road was intended to take me directly to the National Monument, but for whatever reason the gate was closed. So once again I had to turn around and backtrack to route 89 and then into the main entrance of the Sunset Crater National Monument which to my surprise was open. I have been to this monument once before, but I didn’t see it all, I did a hike on the Lava's Edge Trail.

The OHV area is huge with both flats and hilly forested areas

The OHV road heading towards Sunset Crater Volcano

View from the Lava's edge trail, the lava looks so fresh

View of the Sunset Crater Cone

I then continued north on route 89 to Page, Arizona traveling through beautiful Navajo country. It was extremely windy, I narrowly missed an RV Side awning member laying across the road. I had wandered why that RV that had passed me going in the opposite direction with its awning flying overhead like a big flag. The several Navajo craft vendors along the highway were all vacant due to the serious covid-19 virus situation on the reservation. Of course, I found a couple good murals and scenic photos. At Page, first thing was to a car wash to wash the dust off the van, it was choking me. I then visited the famous Horseshoe Bend. I found that the Page Walmart allowed overnight stays, not so many do any more, and it was packed with them by 7 PM, along with me. It had been a long day, I slept like a log.

These murals were very well done, almost fine art

No vendors, but the views were great

Colorful flags

I was quite impressed by this mural and the background

A surprisingly good shot of Horseshoe Bend considering the poor light

Day 7 started with doing laundry, getting water, checking to see if the John Wesley Powell Museum was open, it wasn’t, and then a couple of short hikes, to “Hanging Gardens” and “The Chains”, near the “Glen Canyon Dam”. I then went to the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area at Lone Rock where RV’s were lined up along the Colorado River. They mostly appeared to be weekend campers who tend to bring everything but the kitchen sink and they were all lined up right next to each other. Radios playing, kids screaming and the noise of boats in the river and ATV’s racing around the surrounding area. It’s a beautiful camping spot on the river in front of the iconic Lone Rock, but not exactly serene. I parked far to the rear away from the crowd. Good sleeping with the temperature dropping in 57 degrees overnight.

Hanging Gardens was not so exciting, the walk to it was way better

The Chains area is a slick rock area open for fishing, swimming and rock scrambling

Many impressive sights in all directions

Lone Rock view

After exiting Lone Rock, I saw a side road leading to a cattle gate. I had expected a "No Trespassing" sign, but was surprised instead to see "Please close gate behind you". The rock formations were incredible and there was a deep slot canyon running under the highway bridge. I actually got into the slot, but shortly ran into a dead end or I should say an obstacle beyond my capabilities.

This was the main attraction

This is about where I stopped

I then continued north on route 89 for a hike at the "Toadstools". I had done it before but it had been late in the day and very crowded, this time it was far better conditions and far less crowded.

The main attraction

In every direction it is equally impressive

After the hike, continuing on route 89, then exited onto "Cottonwood Road" which goes back into the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. I was just looking for a scenic lunch spot, but ended up going 10 miles further in. It was very scenic, but everything really interesting was a long hike and I wasn't up for that. There are many great hikes along this road that I hope to return to.

It's kind of like this in all directions !

That’s enough for my first week and I’ve already violated my planned format of keeping it short and simple.

Next stop is Grand Canyon North.

I take off on another cargo van adventure to Bisbee, Arizona for the Side Pony music festival on November 8th. I believe this is the 3rd year I have attended this festival which is now in their eighth season, and actually I am surprised that it isn't mobbed with concert goers by now. it's a unique event as it is in Bisbee to start and takes place all over town at various venues with many diverse bands and is free. I suppose it doesn't draw the huge crowds as there are no big media names, no stars, most of the bands are local, the venues are all small and it's in a remote location. These are the reasons I like this festival and I hope it doesn't change. Actually I shouldn't be promoting this festival, popularity may destroy it ?

This isn't really much of a van adventure although it is a scenic ride to Bisbee. I do a stealth overnight on a nearby street in the new Bisbee area near the Warren ball field. There is a great Saturday farmers market across the street in the park and the ball park is one of the oldest continuously operated ball fields in the country.

I attend many music sessions from Friday afternoon through Sunday afternoon, but there is no way to se everyone. The performers play short sets and then rotate to different venues around town so if you want to see specific people you get considerable exercise hustling around town. That can also involve considerable step climbing as anyone who has been to Bisbee will know.

The music venues

The Saturday schedule - so many choices

Part of the fun here is people watching, Bisbee attracts a strange element and the ambiance of the downtown, particularly the Brewery Gulch area, puts one at risk for some debauchery. The other part for me is taking photos, Bisbee is extremely photogenic even when nothing is going on.