August 5 - 6, 2020: Missoula - Polson - Big Fork, Montana
I driving I-90 to route 93 north where I enter the Confederated Sallis and Kootenai tribal reservation. It is a beautiful area of rolling hills, much hay farming and the National Bison Range. I had hoped to see part of the Bison Range but it was closed for Covid-19 concerns, which makes little sense to me, as it is in wide open terrain. I did see a few Bison in the distance on a side road bordering the preserve.
 |
| On the reservation |
 |
| The tribe has maintained and promotes their tribal language with roadside signs |
 |
| I wanted to stop and buy anything from this Indian store, love the sign, but it was closed |
 |
| That's the sad story, but this tribe appears to be on the rebound |
 |
| There really are Bison here |
I next stopped at the town of St. Ignatius to see the historic Mission, it also was closed, but I was able to at least view it from the parking lot. This mission system seems similar to the California Spanish Missions, but perhaps not so domineering. I then stopped at a shop and bought a jar of Huckleberry Jam, everything is Huckleberry flavored in this part of Montana. I am also entering the famous Flathead Cherry area now, I need to get some of them as well.
 |
| Quite a large impressive structure |
 |
| The log building was one of the original buildings |
 |
| The site of the last Hudson Bay Trading Post and Fort Connah |
 |
| In the effort to exterminate the Bison and the Indians, these Bison wagons were used |
I came upon a sign for the Nine Pipes Wildlife Refuge and exited the road to check it o formed during the glacial period. This land was originally the Flathead Reservation land allotment of a Joseph Nine Pipes. Wildlife is abundant here and they have a series of wonderful interpretive signs, although they are in serious need of maintenance and repair.
 |
| Lots of birds, ducks and various water fowl here |
 |
| It was a very hazy day, I had trouble getting the mountains and the reflection to show |
 |
| Ninepipe welcome sign, the signs here need much attention |
Next was the small town of Ronan, Montana where I visit the Garden of the Rockies Museum, it was small but folksy with much history of the areas early settlers. In the west, this is sort of weird to me, the early settlers were not that long ago, they are about my grandparents age. The Museums interior walls and ceiling were covered in decorative pressed tin paneling and the building was originally a church. It had been moved to this site a few miles from its original location. The old stage stop log building on the property was most interesting and a robust structure.
 |
I love the signs and the seedy quality of these places, but have no fear, I frequent them
only to see the interior which is often a disappointment, have one beer and leave |
 |
| That's a log jam on the river, how would you like to unjam it ? |
 |
| Or bucking a big one like this ? |
 |
| Does anyone throw away their old cowboy hats ? |
 |
| How would you like to care for this monster ? |
 |
| Sloan's Flat Stage Stop |
 |
It was common in the early days to marry an Indian woman,
which improved your life expectancy |
I arrive in Polson in mid afternoon and entering town come upon this large museum, the "Miracle of America Museum", with some incredible stuff displayed. I wasn’t very interested actually, one museum a day is adequate, but no way to pass this up. This museum is really special, so much stuff, actually too much stuff, everything is sort of cluttered together making it somewhat overwhelming to view. After looking at the inside relics there are approximately 20 some outside buildings filled with more treasures. I spent a couple of hours there and that was rushing through, I just bypassed several of the outside buildings.
 |
| The entrance sign |
 |
| In front of the museum |
 |
| Planes |
 |
| Tons of military stuff, the owner was obviously a hawk |
 |
| Various construction equipment too |
 |
| Vintage army trucks |
 |
| Dozens of old snow mobile vehicles |
 |
| Buildings full of old farm tractors and trucks and so much more |
After that, I made my way to the downtown area of Polson situated directly on the southern shore of Flathead Lake. It’s an impressive sight and as you first get a glimpse of the lake as it is huge. This lake reminds me of the New York Finger Lake area except this lake is actually larger, it is the largest fresh water lake in the western US at 15 miles wide by 27 miles long. It was a hot sunny afternoon and the beautiful lakefront Sacajawea Park was crowded with mostly local people. The lake water is amazingly clear and it is definitely the hang out spot for the local teens. Pushing and shoving each other into the water seemed to be the fun thing to do. All along the shoreline were interpretive signs on the wildlife, the native Indians culture and the early days of Polson.
 |
| The Cherry festival is a big deal here |
 |
| The beautiful Lake County Court House |
 |
| Flathead Lake is beautiful with crystal clear water |
 |
| The park area wraps around the lakefront |
This area is all part of the Confederated Sallish and Kootenai Tribal Reservation and they appear to be a very vibrant tribal group. They were forced from their ancestral tribal land where they had lived for thousands of years, after various treaties were broken by the US government. However, they did not give up, they fought back into prominence and in 1934 when the Indian Reorganization Act was enacted, they were the first tribe to develop a new constitution under the guidelines. They have a new college, hospital and medical services, a casino / hotel complex, own the former Kerr Dam, renamed the Selis Ksanke Qlispe Dam. They have also added special fencing and bridges for wildlife protection and crossings on route 93 and have done much to improve the areas environment.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flathead_Indian_Reservation
I departed Polson around noon on the following day taking route 93 up the eastern shore of Flathead Lake to Bigfork, Montana. This road is heavily traveled with few roadside pullouts making it difficult for a scenic traveler like me. I don’t understand it, but it seems that most people have a destination and want to just get there, soon as possible, no messing around, pedal to the metal. As a result, even though I feel I’m pushing the van pretty hard, there seems to always be some one on my tail wanting to pass. As a result, the drive was both stressful and frustrating in that I couldn’t stop to admire this incredibly beautiful lake very often. It also seems that about every inch of Flathead Lake is privately owned, except for a few state parks. There are also many orchards here (about one every mile) with roadside stands selling flathead cherries. I might add that I bought some and they are delicious !
 |
| A lake view heading north to Big Fork |
Arriving at Bigfork, I took a wrong turn and ended up in this exclusive lakeside golf course development. I thought, this doesn’t look like the rustic small lake village that I had expected, or hoped for, this is a serious rich and famous area. I eventually found the historic Bigfork downtown a few miles away, very quaint, some history, but not so rustic, more upscale with crafts shops, boutiques, outdoor gear, art galleries, real estate offices, a summer theater playhouse and several pubs. I wandered around in and out of shops and then stopped at the Garden Bar for a beer in their nice back patio area with the walls covered with local business signs.
Since it’s near impossible to get on the lake for a camping site, I decided to just park on the street and ended up next to the library where I could use their WiFi. The only problem was noise, lots of car and truck traffic and people talking (another bar nearby) until about midnight.
I’ll be back on the road heading for Kalispell, Montana in the morning.
No comments:
Post a Comment