Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Elko, Nevada

September 20-23, 2014:

We head out onto Interstate highway 80 east, first time all year that we have been on an interstate for an extended run and I don't care for it much.  The traffic was not bad, but too many miles of road construction straddling the rumble strip.  The road up Immigrant Pass was a long rev'ed up climb, I was able to pass a couple of big rigs, what a thrill, only to have them blast back by me on the downhill.  It is about 150 long miles to the Elko RV Park about 11 miles east of Elko.  The address entered into our GPS was obviously wrong.  The RV park was actually right off route 80, at exit 214, we could see it from the exit, but our GPS was telling us to go another 1/2 hour into the boonies.  Adding to the confusion was the fact that the RV park sign just said "RV Park", not the full name.  We called the park and they confirmed that they were in fact at the exit. It's a decent full hookup campsite, lots of permanent residents, mine workers, but the staff was extra friendly, everything works and there is even a tavern/gaming room on site.


A long straight route 80 view

Campground Tavern and gaming Room is actually very
nice !

We set up then went back into Elko to explore and visit Walmart for a few supplies. I was at Elko a few years ago for the Cowboy Poetry Festival, it's an interesting town, very cowboy, but growing like crazy.  It's another one of those towns that has been put on the "best place to live" list and is now booming.  It also helps that they have several gold mines back in operation these days, there lots of mine workers in our campground.  The old downtown is about the same though, everything else looks bigger and more congested.

Club Silver Dollar

The Commercial Casino front

Elko Court House

Nice signs downtown

Western Folklife Center-home of the Cowboy Poetry Gathering

The Power Shots Bar

The Stumble Inn - for sale

Cowboy Poetry gathering banner

When in Elko, the Northeastern Nevada Museum is a must see, it is one of the best small city museums in the country.  My favorite thing there is the Will James art and book exhibit.  Will James is considered one of the best western artists and he wrote many western adventure books which he illustrated himself.


The old mail stage

You don't want to get this close to one

An illustrated Will James letter to a friend

A classic Will James drawing

A few Will James books

These were worn by a resourceful
cattle rustler to cover his tracks

Huge gem stone

The story of Guadelupe S. Garcia and his saddle shop is legend in Elko.  He came from Sonora, Mexico, apprenticed at another saddle making shop, then started his own Saddle Shop in Elko.  He became quite good at it and made a saddle which he entered in the 1904 St. Louis Exposition.  He also entered this saddle in the 1905 Lewis and Clark exposition in Portland, Oregon.  He won the gold medal in both expositions which had never happened before.  This Saddle is now in the Nevada State Museum in Cason City, Nevada.  His Saddles became highly sought after, he became very successful and started the Elko Rodeo.  The business was taken over by a son and then eventually sold to J. M. Capriola Co. who operates it today.  The store is also a must see in Elko, has a museum section and the spurs and bits in their display case are works of art.


Garcia exhibit in museum

View of old Saddle in the store

Mural on side of the J.M. Capriola store

J.M. Capiola Co. storefront

Sunday morning brought some light rain, that was a surprise, then it cleared and then became stormy looking with dark ominous clouds in the evening.  This made for a special sunset though, also a surprise.


Wonderful dark clouds

The opposite sky was this

Blazing sunset on another day

Monday, we drove to Lamoille Canyon where the Lamoille Scenic Byway winds for 12 miles into the Canyon that they call Nevada's Yosemite.  It was beyond scenic, tremendous views in all directions and the sky and cloud conditions accentuated everything.  We took a short, but steep uphill trail along a creek that meandered through a wide open meadow.  There were the remains of a huge old beaver dam on the creek, appears that the beavers have moved on to other areas.


Nice view of the Lamoille Valley

View from the trail

A broken up Beaver Dam

On the trail

A clear mountain stream plunging into the pool below

Many of the trees are butchered up by
people carving things, the Basque
Sheepherders started this trend

View into the Canyon

Old Studebaker Wagon against the mountain view
   
We then drove into the nearby town of Lemoille which gets much attention in tourist guides, but not really much there to see, except the small Presbyterian church building.


The "Little Church at the Crossroads" in Lomoille

It's not Vegas, but Elko has it's share of bright neon lights.  The two main downtown Casinos, "Stockman's" and the "Commercial" are long time fixtures in Elko.  The Commercial has a great Bear on the facade and inside is the an actual professionally mounted Polar Bear that is mounted standing up (10 foot 6 inches) and is said to be the largest ever killed.


Sign on the ceiling inside the "Silver Dollar" Club

The Real "White King" Polar Bear

The Commercial Casino

That -A-Way to the Centre Motel, the lights change to
simulate hand movement

Manor Motor Lodge

Club Silver Dollar

The Stockman's Casino

The Star for great Basque food

Elko came into existence as a work camp for the Transcontinental Railroad, as the tracks were completed, the town sprang up.  Years earlier, the California Trail passed a few miles from Elko.  Today the Central Pacific Railroad is still going strong hauling freight and interstate Route 80 is a main east/west highway across the US.


Western Pacific Locomotive and Cabose

California Trail marker

Next stop is south to the town of Eureka, Nevada:

Twinkles and Slick

Saturday, September 20, 2014

Winnemucca, Nevada

September 18-19, 2014:

It was one of our longest, most beautiful and most remote travel days ever.  A few miles north of Lakeview, we turned onto route 140 east and for close to 200 miles there was nothing but high desert country, barbed wire, cows and wild life.  I know they call route 50 in Nevada the "loneliest road", but I can't image it being as remote as this road.  It was really beautiful though with a really stunning uphill climb to Dougherty summit, where I stopped for a photo next to a trail for a hang glider takeoff point.


Long straight uphill to the clouds
The road up Dougherty Summit

At top of the  Summit

Route 140 travels through the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge, lots of BLM land and the Fort McDermitt Indian Reservation before intersecting route 195 south to Winnemucca.  Once on route 195 the valley was filled with haze that was obscuring the distant mountain ranges.  We eventually found out that this is smoke from the forest fire in Weed, California. 

We arrived at the Hi-Desert RV Park around 2:30 and set up in a full hookup campsite.  It is located in the town, just off interstate 80, lots of amenities, pool, store, cable TV and free WiFi and most importantly they accept the Passport America discount rate. After setting up, we took a quick tour of Winnemucca and ate dinner at Chihuahua's Grill and Cantina which was very good.  Winnemucca is the classic old Nevada Casino town with several Casino's, Hotels, cheap Motels, seedy looking bars and even a Brothal.

Hi-Desert RV entrance

Indian motif on street posts

Mural on downtown Casino

Wild West Saloon sign

Mineshaft Bar

Court House

Chamber of Commerce building

Cheers Bar back door

Sun Dance Casino

Huge log washed up on a Crescent City California
beach and was donated to Winnemucca for
this roadside marker

Interesting comment about early Winnemucca

License plate caught my attention, may attract
police also ?

Old Winnemucca Hotel is for sale

Winner's Casino

We were delighted on Friday to see the smoke mostly gone, could see the surrounding mountains and blue sky.  We went to the Winnemucca Museum which is another excellent museum loaded with great stuff.  The woman there explained a number of exhibits and was very knowledgable and courteous.  They had some very rare unusual cars on display which surprised me, I hadn't expected that.
  

A past sheriff of Winnemucca

Rare old cars in museum

"NO Skid" tire with it spelled in tread

1911 Brush Runabout car

Old carved wooden Indian figures
that once stood in front of a Casinos

Prehistoric bones in museum

Old wagon in yard

Old trucks in yard behind the museum

The town of Winnemucca was named for Chief Winnemucca of the Paiute tribe, also called "Winnemucca the younger" and "Bad Face".  He  distrusted white settlers and was an active war chief.  He had a daughter, Sara Winnemucca, who became a quite famous activist, educator and writer.  A statue of her is in the US Capital building in Washington DC.


Chief Winnemucca's headdress

We then did something unusual, we went to Long John Silvers for lunch.  I had said that I actually liked their fish although I haven't had any in decades.  Twinkles was very upset by this fact, but decided that we would go so she could prove to me the error of my ways.  She ordered one "token" piece of fish for herself.  It was great, even better tasting than I remembered and Twinkles even very painfully admitted that it was good, but continued to scold me for eating something that horribly unhealthy.  I can't win !


On the wall at Long John Silvers

I had seen many handbills in downtown windows for a concert featuring a musician, David Jacob Strain, on Friday evening at the "Martin Hotel" which is a historic Basque restaurant in Winnemucca.  When I saw that he had taught guitar at Jorma Kaukonen's Fur Peace Ranch I knew he had to be someone special.  I bought a ticket and the show was really great !   He is an incredible blues guitar player with a good voice, good stories to tell and great stage presence.  He was accompanied by Bob Beach on harmonica who was equally great.  One of the best concerts I have seen in a long time.  The concerts are put on every few months by a volunteer organization and the Martin Hotel allows them to use a private back room.


The Martin Hotel

Davis Jacob Strain and Bob Beach on harmonica


Saturday morning it's back on the road, route 80 east, to a favorite place of mine, Elko, Nevada.
Hopefully no  smoke;

Twinkles and Slick