Eureka to Whitefish and Glacier National Park, Montana

August 9- 16, 2020:  Eureka to Whitefish to Glacier National Park, Montana

I hated to leave the beautiful campsite at Eureka, but I’d end up just goofing off and I’m driven to keep moving, my obsession.  So off I go in the AM, slowly, making numerous stops along the way.  I exit route 93 several times at the towns of Stryker and Fortune, both on the Great Northern Rail Line.  I then stop at Murphy Lake where they have signs describing the Loon, this lake is one of few nesting sites for them in Montana.  Unfortunately, I didn’t hear the “Call of the Loon”.

I sit and listen for the Loons

I arrive in Whitefish around noon and park downtown at the train depot area.  I remember going to the excellent museum in the depot on a previous visit back in 2015.  I walk around a few blocks of the downtown which I didn’t like before and I dislike even more now.  It’s criminal in my mind what they did to these historic old buildings, they really should remove all the historic signs that give the buildings history.  They totally covered the original facades with new materials, wood, brick, stone etc to modernize them and hide the original architecture.  I then went to lunch at the Craggy Range Restaurant, a big mistake, don’t ever go there, the service was painfully slow (not the servers fault) the sandwich was horrible and the decor was ugly too !

Next, I found that the Amtrak Depot museum was closed, I was hoping to see it again, maybe latter ?

By this time it’s about 3 PM, so I decide to look for a camping spot that is showing on my "ultimate Campsite" app.  It is another tricky place to find, but when I do find it, it is worth it.  It is situated right on the Flathead River about 20 miles from the entrance to Glacier National Park. It’s a forest service dispersed campsite, free, and it seem that people have found out about it, quite a crowd shows by nightfall.  It is like the "cool" place to camp, with many alternative type people present. It is a short, but rough road to enter, big potholes, not feasible for anything larger than a van or truck camper.

The Flathead River from an uncrowded area near my camp site

I get up early and arrive at Glacier National Park just before 7 AM, the entrance gates are open, cars are already streaming in, hundreds of cars, not paying to enter as no gate attendant is on duty until 7 AM.  You would think someone would realize this and adjust working hours ?  I go to the visitors center, its not open at all although they do have a ranger there to answer questions.
I get onto the famous Going-to-the-Sun Road, but make many stops while most travelers are rushing through to get to the more popular areas before they fill up.  As I arrive at these popular sites, parking spaces are completely filled and they are not letting people enter the Logan Pass visitors center area.  Since I can can stay here for as many days as I want, it’s no big deal for me, I’ll do it differently tomorrow.
The Going to the Sun Road is a long, narrow, winding road with many areas that have no shoulder, many tight curves and in some areas little room for error when passing cars coming in the opposite direction.  I drive about 40 miles to the Sun Point area where I stop for a hike, I need to unwind.  It’s the Three Falls Trail which follows the shore of St. Mary Lake and goes passing the Baring Waterfall and the St Mary's Waterfall at which point I (and most people) turn around and go back.  Much of the area around the lake was burnt in the most recent fire in 2015.  The Forest lifecycle is amazing, with the trees no longer shadowing them, plants and wildflowers have spread like crazy and with brilliant blooms.  Eventually the trees will return and the plants and wildflowers will be shadowed out again.  This natural life cycle does not agree with our modern lifestyle in which we desire to live in these beautiful areas.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glacier_National_Park_(U.S.)

View of Saint Mary Lake from the trail

Baring Waterfall (I think)

After the fire, mountain views are now possible

Afterwards, I drive out of Glacier Park and to the town of Columbia Falls to explore, then return to the town of Coram where I stop for a burger at the Packers Roost Saloon and Eatery.

It looks rough from the parking lot, but is beautiful inside and my burger was great

Hungry Horse, Martin City and Coram are all small rustic towns, almost connected, which soon become my favorite area.  There are several motels and cabins, convenance stores, several restaurants and bars.  I find a convenient overnight spot just outside of Hungry Horse on a dead end road next to a bridge.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hungry_Horse,_Montana

The welcome sign got my attention

The interesting town name has a good story although I'm not sure true that it's totally accurate. There were two pack horses that ran away in early winter, were searched for and not found until early the following spring.  They were found stuck in a snowdrift, still barely alive, nearly starved, but were given food and survived. As a result, the towns name became Hungry Horse.

A short drive up into the hills behind Hungry Horse brings you to the colossal Hungry Horse Dam.  It is huge, the 10th tallest concrete dam in the world at 564 feet tall.  It is also 2,115 feet wide and creates an equally huge reservoir and recreation area.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hungry_Horse_Dam

The Dam spans a deep valley and as you can see the water is near the top of the dam

On day two, I start earlier, drive non stop to the Logan Pass visitors center area, arriving at 7:15 AM, to find the parking lot already full, but I get a nearby spot on a roadside pull off.  It is a cold and very windy day, all the trails at Loagn Pass are closed except for the Garden Wall Trail, the most popular one which everyone is streaming to.  After about a 1/2 mile into the hike I come out into the open where the wind (30 MPH gusts) is blasting me.  That was too much for me, I don’t need this today, hopefully tomorrow will be a better day ?

I then drive to another trailhead where a creek is flowing downhill with several waterfalls and a trail that is going uphill adjacent to it.  This is more to my liking, out of the wind, sunny, nice wildflowers and very interesting rocks.  There are several small waterfalls along the creek as you climb uphill and even a patch of snow.

A sheet of snow barely hanging on to the slope

The view ahead

Many wildflowers

Many waterfalls 

I make another stop where there are two very popular trails, the Avalanche Lake Trail and the Trail of the Cedars, but both are closed due to bear activity.  The bears seem to out and about at this time and causing some issues.  The park takes no chances, when reported they immediately close the trail.

Front page news

Heading out of the park just before the Lake McDonald Lodge is a very nice river area with with small falls and rapids and a smooth rocky surface near a walking bridge. Many people are enjoying the view, a couple were even taking a nap.  Also many kids and adults were entertained by throw rocks and stuff into the water (big fun for most people).

Taken upstream from the bridge

Back at Hungry Horse, I get a shower at a local motel for $5, I need to clean up because I'm going the the Wednesday evening live music jam session at the Dam Town Tavern. I go and to my surprise it was very good, all veteran players, playing mostly classic rock. The local  patrons are a little scary though, no social distancing or masks and they all look like back woods, hard drinking types.  Regardless, I had an enjoyable time.

The fun spot in Hungry Horse

I return to Glacier on the next day to try the Garden Wall Trail again as the weather has improved.  Everyone seems to have had the same idea, the trail is very congested.  It is difficult, nearly impossible for ant social distancing, but most people are actually wearing masks.
It is a spectacular trail with great views that follows a rocky ledge on the side of a mountain side.  There is a cable strung to hold onto, but actually the ledge is plenty wide, except when passing other hikers.  The trail is not really difficult until you get off the ledge and out into a wide open area leading to a boulder strewn area.  The trail then climbs up steeply to a glacier overlook and eventually to the Granite Park Chalet.  I turned just beyond the bouldered area.

Logan Pass is on the Continental Divide

It does look a little scary from this point

But, the views are worth it ?

Coming out into more relaxed hiking terrain

Everyone was pointing uphill to this Mountain Goat, I zoomed in for this shot

Looking down at the auto road far below the trail

This deer had little fear of people

Lots of wildflowers

Very healthy looking Goldenrods

Great views in every direction

They were beautiful

The vegetation was dense in areas

It’s now Friday and I decide that I need a break from the park,  I start off in Columbia Falls where I go to a laundromat, I even do my sheets this time and then visit the local Library.  They (like most libraries) are being almost ridiculously careful about Covid-19, only a few seats available and only a 30 minute time allowed.   The WiFi is good however, everything works and I accomplish quite a lot.  I then take another tour of the town, not much to it really, but I do find the old Shay logging Locomotive that was saved, restored and out on display in a little park area where I suppose (no sign) the Train Depot used to be.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Columbia_Falls,_Montana

A nice mural at the Masons Club

Shay Locomotives had a unusual drive arrangement

I then travel back to Whitefish mainly for a return visit to the Depot museum in the former Great Northern Depot, current the Amtrak Depot.  It didn’t seem as interesting this time, they often don't on a return visit and exhibits change.  I also had hoped to use the impressive city library adjacent to the depot to finish another blog entry.  I go in the library to find that they have no seats, you have to sit outside, but there was a special event going on outside.  I then went to the park across the street where Whitefish supplies WiFi, although it is too weak for me to use at all. As a result, I head to a nearby McDonalds where from the parking lot in the van I have super good WiFi.

James J Hill (the Empire Builder)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/James_J._Hill


I'm back to Glacier National Park on Saturday where I arrive early at the Trackers Roost parking area to get on the Loop Trail although I am not planning to do the full loop.  Actually I didn't even understand what the "Loop Trail" was. Instead, I am I doing a four mile hike to the Granite Park Chalet at which point I will turn around and return.  Shortly after getting on the trail a couple ahead of me signals me to stop, there is a bear just off the trail.  It soon moves away and we proceed being extra careful with no further sightings.  I would consider this a hard trail as it is practically all a steep uphill grind the entire 4 miles with a gain of about 2,000 ft elevation.  I couldn’t notice that the average age of the hikers was about 25 years old and they were passing me constantly.  I dug in and pushed on to my turn around spot at the Chalet.  

Many people continue on from there on the Garden Wall Trail uphill to a glacier overlook and then back to the Logan Pass Visitors Center.  Normally there would be a tram at Logan Pass for you to get back to your car at the Trackers Roost parking lot, but they aren’t running now due to Covid-19 concerns.  So most people are now hitch hiking back, riding with strangers who aren't wearing masks.  I wish I had understood how this Loop Trail works as I would have done the entire Loop, but in the the opposite direction which has far less uphill.

 I go into Glacier a last time on Sunday morning to get some morning photos of Jackson Lake in early light, then head to the river area for a few more shots.

I also stop at the Jackson Lodge for a huge breakfast tortilla, but it was really a breakfast burrito.

They paddled right into my scene, couldn't have been staged any better 

That’s enough of Glacier National Park, I've tired of the crowds, the trail congestion and the rushing around looking for parking spots.  I am now heading east on route 2 towards my next destination of Shelby, Montana.  A last shot of the West Glacier train depot at Belton, Montana.

A very historic Depot

Bigfork to Kalispell and Eureka, Montana

August 7 - 8, 2020 - Bigfork to Kalispell and Eureka, Montana

It’s only about 30 miles from Bigfork to Kalispell driving on route 93 north.  I had been to Kalispell some years ago and it comes back to me after driving down Main Street.  Main Street has many historic buildings occupied by a nice selection shops and businesses.  I do my usual walking tour of Main Street, talking a few photos, noticing a very attractive bakery, but relent for now.  I see the old Carnegie Library, now the Hockaday Art Museum and surprisingly it is open.  I go in and find a photo exhibit that is interesting, a few Great Northern Railroad advertising art pieces and the rest was closed in preparation for an upcoming show.  The high point was the gift shop where all their posters were half off and a Great Northern Indian promotional poster became mine.  

I passed the excellent museum in the old school building across the street, but I remember visiting it on my previous visit and I’m kind of OD’d on museums right now.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kalispell,_Montana

The Courthouse is a beauty

The former Kalispell Hotel

A nice clean downtown

What people did in the last epidemic

There were a series of these inspirational notes on a downtown wall

The original Carnegie Library is now the Hockaday Museum of Art

I debated getting back on the road to continue north or stay for the day, deciding to stay.  I end up at the Walmart where there is some stupidity going on, imagine that at Walmart ?, with a group of demonstrators with signs out front on the highway demonstrating against having to wear face masks.  They are carrying flags to show their patriotic zeal to uphold their constitutional rights to not wear a mask. Okay, I’m definitely out of Kalispell in the morning. 

I head out in the morning on route 2 west passing a bike trail that runs for several miles along the former Great Northern train line.  I then come upon a series of beautiful lakes, McGregor and Thompson along the road, stopping at Thompson for a couple of photos.

Roadside view

The reflections of the clouds and the trees in Thompson Lake were great

The highway then runs parallel to Libby Creek to the town of Libby where it joins the Kootenai River.  Route 2 goes right through Libby and the Heritage Museum which was closed but they leave their outside lot open allowing you to wander around which I do.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Libby,_Montana

A well done Texaco gas station exhibit

This photo is in many guide books, it's known as Paul Bunyan's Fry Pan that was used
to cook with at Libby's annual Logger Day's festivals

Libby is the county seat of Lincoln County Montana and is the largest area town.  It had a short lived mining boom, then timber became the big industry, now I suppose it’s tourism.  The historic downtown is looking a little rough, the usual thing, all the new business are located in the newer section of town on route 2.  It’s Saturday, most of the downtown businesses are closed and the sidewalks are empty.  The Libby Hotel, probably Libby’s finest years ago now looks more like a welfare Hotel.  I stop at the visitors Center, it’s closed, but there is a map that I look at to see exactly where the Kootenai Falls are located.

Casino's and wood saws are big in Libby

The Pastime Lounge and Dollar Store

Appropriate mural for Libby

Empty storefront ?

The old Hotel Libby looking shabby these days

I continue on route 2 about 18 miles to the Kootenai Falls where the parking lot is nearly full. It’s a popular easy trail to the waterfall and the popular river suspension bridge.  There was a line at the bridge, barely moving so I headed for the waterfall instead.  It’s funny how everyone wants a thrill ride or some form of adventure these days, but the bridge isn’t a big deal.  The water fall by itself wasn’t that special either, I’ve seen many much larger ones, but the overall view of the river rapids, the swift current and the series of falls all combined make for a great view.

It wasn't' cute, it was stupid; They carried this dog all around
getting the maximum attention possible

The Kootenai River 

The bridge was the top attraction for most tourists

Following that I drove another 28 miles on route 56 to the Ross Cedar Grove which is a grove of giant Western Red Cedar Trees that are very old and massive.  They can live for about a thousand years.  I don’t understand exactly how or why these trees escaped the woodsman’s saw.  There is a loop nature trail that was very good with many interpretive signs. After leaving heading back on route 56 I came upon a roomy roadside pull off next to the beautiful Bull Lake that was a good scenic overnight camping site for me.

 Not giant redwoods, but very impressive 

These two seem to have merged together

There was a couple with a cute daughter who kept pushing over the cairns, they kept telling her to stop, she just kept doing it, until they finally took her away, she was an evil child !

I was woken at 5 AM by a pickup truck pulling in next to me, about the time I start to wake when I go to sleep by 10 PM. They only stayed a few minutes and left, probably a bathroom stop, but I was ready for trouble with my bear spray in hand.  I get an early start thinking I will stop in the next town to get a coffee and then make breakfast, a bowl of cereal.

I did get a decent sunrise photo in the morning

  Troy Montana is the place where I get a coffee in a gas / convenance store. As I drank the coffee, I kept thinking of the really dirty hands of the store clerk who probably made the coffee. On the highway, my first impression was that this is a crappy place, except for the nice museum and visitor’s center, but on getting off the highway, I find that the rest of the town is rather nice.  At the old downtown, near the railroad tracks, you find an historic old log two story bar that has been restored, (but overdone) with fancy carved wooden posts and a wooden motorcycle sculpture on the facade.  This is the original Main Street and there are a few other old nice surviving buildings in line on the street.  There are signs that tell of the glory days when Troy was a railroad Division Point, that employed hundreds of workers, had a large turntable, a large engine house and miles of storage tracks.  It’s all gone now, the old timers, the locomotives and the buildings, but the signage tells the story.  The railroad shop was eventually eliminated with the switch to Diesel Locomotives which was a huge crushing blow for the town.  The other boom industry was lumber, it’s not as great now as it was back in the day when billions of railroad ties were needed and everything was made of wood.  This is Trump country, I suppose they hope Trump will make it mandatory to make everything out of wood and bring back the steam locomotives.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Troy,_Montana

The impressive Troy school building with its gladiator monument

The Biker Bar, the entire building is made of logs

The old Kootenai Valley State Bank

A very well equipped Roosevelt Park

The Lincoln Theater

A touching story about the town Christmas Tree

The Christmas Tree is a big one

I stop at Yaak Falls next to the highway where you need to carefully go down a slippery slope to get close to the waters.  The trees were so dark and the water so white due to the lighting condition that the photo is terrible.  Another less than great waterfall, but an overall great view.

Yaak Falls

So, I’m continuing on route 2 heading north through densely forested country, but lots of mailboxes on the road, the houses are hidden back from the road, there are way more people and houses here than are seen.  Of course the further north I go the thiner that gets and then I arrive at the town of Yaak.  I hesitate to call it a town, all I could see was a two biker bars with a small store and one gas pump.  I took a photo, they were interesting, but I did expect a little more.

This could be true for many

The Dirty Shame Saloon in Yaak

The road is slowly climbing higher and higher and has gotten more narrow and the views of the distant mountains are great.  The Forest is so green and the trees so tall, I don’t think I’ve seen so much lush greenery.  We then start downhill in a steep, curvy descent for miles and then come out in view of the Koocanusa Reservoir.  This is a beautiful sight and huge, the waters are backed up from the Libby Dam, near the town of Libby far away.  I cross the impressive bridge to the opposite shore and head for the town of Rexford.  I stop there and don’t really see much of a town at all, just a large campground.  In the residential area, I even see several open sided, shelters with class A RV’s parked inside, set on regular residential lots.  I latter find out that the original townsite was swallowed up by the reservoir and replaced by this rather strange campground looking town.

The road was very narrow

The view between the trees was great !

A recent burn area that is now covered with wildflowers

The reservoir and bridge were a sight !

I continue on to Eureka, Montana which is a truly a nice town, nice shops, a few good looking restaurants, a nice museum and even a small donation campground in town. It being Sunday, almost everything is closed.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eureka,_Montana

 A nice mural

A beautiful flower and vine draped storefront

The National Hotel, a registered historic landmark

Another nice mural

History Museum with a Great Northern Caboose

A nice story

Art Gallery

I need to find a place for the night and I see a potential forest campground a few miles away.  it’s a little tricky finding it, but following my phone app I get there and find a great campsite for the night.  It’s actually in Kootenai National Forest and I am within 100 yards of the Tobacco River.  I could have stayed there for a number of days and thought about it, but got to keep moving.

Next stop will be Glacier National Park