Las Vegas New Mexico

October 22 - 24, 2017:

We towed the Jeep today on routes 325, 412 and 56, crossing the border into New Mexico and then on interstate 25 to Las Vegas, New Mexico.  It was about 195 miles across wide open rangeland with several long uphill grades that gave the RV a workout.  Towing the Jeep up the long grades really drags it down.  There were two towns enroute that really interested me, Clayton, Kansas where we stopped for gas and Springer, New Mexico where we stopped for a stretch  before getting on interstate 25.  We were basically following the route of the Cimarron cutoff of the Santa Fe Trail the whole way to Las Vegas.

Historic building fro sale in Springer, New Mexico

Old R & H Livery Stable in Springer, New Mexico

Wagon Mound was a landmark for travelers on the Santa Fe Trail

We arrived at the Vegas RV Park to find the office closed and a sign saying to take any open campsite and leave the money in an envelop in the mail slot.  Since we’re staying a few nights we just paid on Monday morning.  This is our 3rd time in Las Vegas, its one of our favorite stops heading back to Tucson, but on previous stops we stayed ay the Storie State Park a couple of miles further outside of town.  As Storie State Park doesn’t have a working dump station or a shower house at this time, we decided to try the Vegas RV Campground this time.  

The town of Las Vegas developed when a group of settlers received a Mexican Land Grant in 1835.  As a result, the downtown had a walled in central square for protection as was custom at that time.  The Central square remains and is something that really gives this town a special character.  The Santa Fe Trail came right through the old downtown to the square which became a regional trading center.  The US wrestled a large portion of the southwest away from Mexico during the Mexican-American War.  US General Kearny actually came to town with his forces in 1846 and stood on a rooftop in the square to advise the people that  they were now US citizens.  If you ride the back streets on the Hispanic side of town it is almost all old adobe houses, some very run down, some abandoned and falling apart and others looking beautiful.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Las_Vegas,_New_Mexico

A photo collage in the Plaza Hotel on the square

 

The Central Square 

The restored Plaza Hotel built in 1881

Santa Fe Trail marker

The square is filled with historic buildings

Every time I come to town, I hope to see that
someone has opened up this building

The old cafe is another one that needs a savior

There is a fund raising campaign to restore the old fire station

There are whole neighborhoods of old Adobe buildings around the Square

Many wealthy influential merchants set up shop in Las Vegas and built impressive buildings.  The arrival of the Atchinson, Topeka and Santa Fe railroad in 1879 away from the old town square resulted in expansion of the town with an equally impressive “New Town” area.  The railroad built a depot with the adjacent "Castaneda Hotel and Harvey House Restaurant".   In the early 1900’s Las Vegas was a leading New Mexico town, bigger than Santa Fe or Albuquerque.  As the 1900’s worn on Las Vegas declined, the money people moved away (as greedy developer types tend to do once they make the easy money) and the town began to spiral downward.

I'm always drawn to this mural in the "New Town" area

The Masonic Temple in New Town

The El Fidel Hotel remains a beauty

The old Lion has been patched up since my last visit

  

I cruise around town looking for changes and new places to explore so I end up at Pedro's Bakery, which was great and super friendly.  Almost across the street is "Mary Ann's Famous Burritos" which I make a point to go to for lunch.  It was a little rough and dated looking inside and quite a long wait for the food.  A local drunk was eating at a table and babbling in a rough gruff, unintelligible (to me) voice.  The waitress did a good job of keeping him in check, he was sort of alternating between Spanish and English and every once in a while she would tell him to watch his language.  Then he started coughing and choking like he might vomit, I was just wanting to leave at this point, when my food came.  He eventually left when the owner came out from the kitchen and told him if he shows up like this again he won’t be allowed in.  After all that, the Burrito was just OK, so they don’t exactly get my recommendation, but it was interesting.

Pedro's has good stuff

In Las Vegas, one must go for breakfast or lunch at "Charlie's Spic and Span", it’s the best, with fresh tortillas made in the restaurant.  We went for breakfast and it was great as usual.  I always visit the murals in the parking lot when I go there, they are most interesting.  We then wander around the square, Twinkles going into the "Thread Bear" quilt shop while I go into the "Plaza Hotel".  The Hotel has been totally restored  and the owner did a video on it and some basic town history that plays in the gift shop.  We then go in the “Paper Trail” store to buy a card and end up spending over $50, we love this store.

   

You can't go wrong at Charlie's Spic & Span

These murals tend to give the hispanic version of history

A new artistic bar and restaurant, the "Skillet" opened recently that definitely appeals to the local "New Mexico Highlands University" crowd.  I went in the evening for a beer to check it out, it was crowded and seems to be the new happening spot in town.  My former favorite small bar that had good live music on weekends has changed, a new name, a totally different look, more normal looking, they still have the live music on weekends, but I much prefer the old place. 

  

The Skillet has expanded from a food truck

Borracho's is a disappointment

Lupe's Lounge still has the best bar mural
anywhere !

Since the 1990’s Las Vegas has been struggling to rebuild, with limited success, but there is hope for the future.  The "Castaneda" was a great railroad hotel that was abandoned for many years but somehow escaped demolition.  A few years ago, a savior, Alan Afield, came onto the scene who is doing a complete restoration of the building which is currently in progress.  He has done this previously at the "Posada Hotel" in Winslow, Arizona.  The "Rawlins" building across the street was used to board the Harvey Girls and is also under restoration.  When completed this area should become a destination.

I took a ride on Railroad Avenue to check on the progress of the "Castaneda" and the "Rawlins" restoration which appear to be making good progress.  In 2015 I had a tour of the Rawlins building from the owner and I was happy to see how great the aluminum front looks after cleaning.

https://www.abqjournal.com/385849/new-owner-shows-off-historic-las-vegas-nm-hotel.html

The Las Vegas Depot where Amtrak's Southwest Chief
still stops

The Castaneda Harvey House Hotel

  

The Rawlins Building

We took a ride out of town with no particular destination and ended up on a backroad that took us into a hilly forested area through the old town of "San Ignacio".  We couldn’t believe the number of houses and ranches in this remote area.  We ended up on a dirt road in the National Forest.  It was a very scenic ride with several old buildings. 

This old adobe building looks to be in great shape

  

We passed the San Ignacio cemetery

Across the street was this monument must have
historical significance ?

There were several ranches along the route

We had planned to go to Santa Fe next until we saw the weather report for sub freezing cold and snow.  As a result, we are going straight to Albuquerque where it is milder.  

The next stop is Albuquerque, New Mexico,

Twinkles and Slick