Thursday, May 17, 2018

Torrey, Utah and Capital Reef National Park

May 6 - 9, 2018:

It’s an amazingly scenic drive from Escalante to Torrey, Utah on Byway 12, but not an easy one.  Many steep uphill climbs, tight curves and steep descents over this 75 mile route along with the scenic eye strain will wear you out.  Twinkles drove the Jeep as it’s not a good road for towing and she was a little nervous until I reminded her that she had driven it before in 2014, she was still nervous.  Arriving in Torrey, Utah, I stopped to get the propane tank filled and then hoped to find Twinkles as there was no phone signal.  Our plan was to meet at a BLM dispersed camping area a few miles down route 24 and it worked perfectly.  She had stopped at the visitors center first and the attendant recommended the second dispersed area (BLM) that they call the Capital Reef overflow area.  We did that and found a beautiful scenic  spot with a view.



We start out in red rock wonderland


Climbing up into a Aspen and pine forest


Cruise America is everywhere



Some of these motorcycle riders are nuts !



At the scenic overflow area

The town of Torrey mostly exists these days on tourism with several public campgrounds, restaurants, a good general store, guide services, coffee shops, but this being Mormon country, no bars.  In Mormon country they sell beer about everywhere, but you do your drinking at home, they are closet boozers.  We looked around town, basically Main Street, testing our memory for what has changed since our last visit 4 years ago.  I can’t believe it was 4 years ago, time is going way too fast !

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torrey,_Utah


We then drove into Capital Reef National Park stopping at the visitor center and then going into the Fruita Historic District and campground to fill a water jug and check out the small store with the great baked goods.  The woman at the counter told us the cinnamon buns were sold out by noon, it's everyones favorite, I expect she was tired of answering that question.  We settled for a couple of cookies and some chocolate ice cream.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capitol_Reef_National_Park


Fruita was a small Mormons settlement started in the 1880's where they developed an irrigation system, planted crops and started an orchard.  It was very remote, isolated and mostly self sufficient in those days.  It’s situated in a protected valley between the mountains with the Fremont River running through it. The small settlement of Fruita has more than 2,500 fruit trees, some planted by the original Mormon pioneers.  In season, you are allowed to wander around and eat the fruit fresh fruit off the trees.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fruita,_Utah



They have a small pasture with horses and farm equipment

A very nice setting


View of the orchards

Our first hike was the Chimney Rock Trail with a 690 foot elevation gain to a rim overlooking the Chimney Rock.  It seemed even higher when looking down at the winding entrance road into Capital Reef National Park.  The trail followed the the canyon rim for a while and then went downhill for a great view of another series of huge colorful rock formations.  We eventually went down into another geological strata with much exposed petrified wood.  The geology is really great on the hike.


At the start


Twinkles is checking the view

Almost level with Chimney Rock


Looking across the valley, quite a view


Twinkles taking a break to appreciate the views

Lots of balancing rocks

And petrified wood


It was then back to the Fruita store for an ice cream and a ride on the “Scenic Road” to the trailhead for the “Grand Wash Trail”.  The Scenic Road is eight miles long with great views all the way, it’s a must see.  We have done the Grand Wash Trail before and only did an abbreviated hike this time.

We took a ride in the evening on route 24 to the nearby town of Bicknell, another traditional Mormon town with vast sheep ranch lands and farms.  Along the road we passed one of the nicest roadside historic markers ever seen about the  nearby Nielsen Grist Mill.  The description of the Mill was unbelievable, all the interior workings are still intact and operational, it was never disassembled and sold or junked out as most are.


Beautiful plaque and a scale model replica of the mill


A short ways away is theNielsen Grist Mill


We had dinner at the Capital Reef Inn and Cafe in Torrey with its beautifully decorated interior.  It has attractive wooden tables and chairs, a brightly painted abstract wall landscape mural, lots of Indian art and a really nice gift shop.

The following morning, after getting a wonderful cinnamon bun from the Fruita store, we again travel down the “Scenic Road” to the end of the pavement and then continue another 2.4 miles on the dirt Capital Gorge Road to the end.  The Capital Gorge Road is really a wash that mostly runs between towering rock walls, it's also narrow in places so to see the top of the rock formations you must get out of the vehicle.  At roads end, the trail starts down the same wash which was the actual pioneer road into the settlement of Fruita used by the Mormon settlers and the ingenuous Indians.  The early phone line was also strung along this route and many of the supports drilled into the rock walls remain.  There are also places where the early settlers gouged their names into the rocks from the late 1800’s and up which they call the pioneer register.  We took a short but steep and treacherous side trail up from the wash to the Tanks which are a series of hollow bowls which collect and hold rain water.  It was a great 360 degree view at the top, the Tanks weren’t really that impressive, mostly dry, but the trail and the views along the way were.



The Capital Gorge Road
 

The trail


The pioneer register


Climbing up to the tanks


Nice place for a rest


Over the past month, we have been steadily getting back into decent hiking shape again. On our final day in Capital reef, we tackle the short but scenic “Hickman Bridge Trail” that takes you to the 133 foot wide by 125 foot tall Hickman Natural Bridge surrounded by 360 degree canyon views.  On the return, we take the trail junction for the “Rim Overlook Trail” that traverses uphill across slickrock skirting past a couple of huge rock monoliths to the canyon rim overlook.  From this perch, you have a panorama view of the surrounding mountains and can look down into the green Fruita Valley.  We had a good early 9 AM start when it was cool, but by 11 AM the skies cleared and it became really hot.  At trails end, it was straight back to what seems to be everyones favorite park store in Fruita for those tasty cold $1 ice cream cups, it was a 2 ice cream cup hike for me !



Not sure if this formation had a name, but it should ?


This is the Hickman Bridge for sure

No doubt about that one
  

I love the way these dark volcanic rocks contrast  to the sandstone


Another formation that should be named


A rim view from the Rim Overlook Trail, the oasis of Fruita is the green valley below


A view of the Fremont River from the Hickman Bridge Trailhead

I managed to get out in the evening for the best light of the day for a few photos.


















Our, wandering style of trip planning is very short sighted this month due to our Tucson house issue.  Our tenants whose lease expires at the end of June were given the okay to vacate earlier provided they give us a couple of weeks advance notice.  As as result we are sort of in limbo and don't want to venture too far away in case we have to return quickly.  

Next stop is Blanding RV Park in Blanding, Utah;
Twinkles and Slick 

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