Travels with Twinkles: Memphis, Tennessee to St. Louis, Missouri

July 12 - 13, 2021:

It’s about 70 miles to Memphis, Tennessee on route 61 and through mostly farm country. I make a stop in Tunica, but don’t see much of interest except for their visitors center a couple of miles outside of town. Casinos seem to be the attraction in Tunica, there are several.

I decide that my first stop is going to be the Sun Studios where many famous musicians and bands were recorded during the 1950-1970’s. The most famous one was Elvis, but there were many others. The original recording studio is mostly intact like it was back then amazingly. They do a tour where a guide takes you in and tells the story of how this studio came to be and the many interesting musicians who recorded here. The young woman guide who probably wasn’t alive during this time was well versed on the history, was enthusiastic and made it interesting.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sun_Studio

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Memphis,_Tennessee

The Sun Studio entrance

In the lobby

Where many artists were discovered

Sam Phillips who started it all

Lots of historic photos

Next it’s off to Beale Street which all tourists must go, similar to Bourbon Street in New Orleans, it’s fun for an hour or two, but it’s also become less and less authentic over the years. It’s actually hard to hear “real” good blues on Beale Street these days. I know at times it still exists, like when the Memphis blues challenge is happening or a special event is taking place, but on this evening, everything I heard was weak.

I still like the signs

The murals too

The Orpheum Theater is a pretty great

B.B. King is everywhere

The Drist Theater

I found my way a few blocks away to the Central Train Station, a beautiful old building that has been transformed into an attractive hotel and restaurant complex. A very small area of the building still contains a ticket office and platform for Amtrak rail service. There is also a railroad and trolley museum inside, but it is only open on weekends. Memphis also has a trolley system which runs old nostalgic trolley cars, recently overhauled, on three lines in the city.

The trolley ends here where they turn around

A sign about the movie history of the area

In the morning, I drive to the riverboat docks which are now closed to normal traffic as they doing major construction work. I then went to the nearby visitors center to ask how to get to the Mississippi River Museum. I found that it was closed, but you can still walk over the bridge to Mud Island where it is located and walk around a outside portion of it. They have a very interesting outside 3D scale model of the entire Mississippi River system with signage describing the details and interesting facts about towns and places along the river.

B.B. King is prominent at the visitors center

Along with Elvis Presley

A view of the impressive bridge from the museum grounds

A barge going past

The Mississippi River scale model was great

I then returned to the “Edge District” of Memphis, where I was yesterday while at Sun Studio, although at the time I didn’t know it. I found the High Cotton Brewing there and several other interesting sights. Nearby I happened to run into a small row of huge victorian mansions, it seems funny that they built them all in a row, rather close together.

I Love Memphis mural

Where Jerry Lee Lewis once played

Rockwalk facts

Johnny Cash was also there

One of my favorite murals in town

A modest dwelling

After a happy hour beer at the High Cotton Brewery, I return to my previous overnight spot neat the Central Station, park and go out on foot around the area looking for a restaurant. I come upon the “Blue Monkey” a couple of blocks away which fits the bill. It was way better than expected, quick efficient service, a chicken PoBoy sandwich with rice that was perfect. I thought about heading back to Beale Street but decided I against it, enough of that crap.

Nostalgic brick inside the High Cotton Brewing Co

The Blue Monkey menu

In the morning, I walk to the Arcade Restaurant which I had been eying up from day one as it is a classic breakfast place done right. It has been in business for a hundred years, advertised as the oldest cafe in Memphis. It was a good send off from Memphis, you just can’t beat smiling attractive waitresses, good service and pleasant atmosphere.

The arcade was a beautiful building as well

I am now crossing the Mississippi River and taking route 55 north into Arkansas through constant farm country. After about 30 miles I cross into Missouri where I stop at a visitors center for travel information, the attendant started to heap brochures on me like it was a yard sale, but they were good ones. I quickly review the brochures and decide to stop at the town of New Madrid, Missouri which is right on the Mississippi River shore, has good history and was the epicenter of one of the largest earthquakes in North American history.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Madrid,_Missouri

First town site in Missouri

Mississippi River is huge here

Next stop was Sikeston, Missouri, the railroad museum was closed, the downtown was boring and the murals were a bust, forget that one.

Moving on my next and bonanza stop was Cape Girardeau, Missouri right on the Mississippi, rich with history, Lewis and Clark, great murals and a vibrant downtown. I would have to say, one of there nicest towns on this trip to date. I even found a small pathetic music jam session in the evening. I spend the overnight at a Walmart.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cape_Girardeau,_Missouri